Our Greek Getaway: Breathtaking Santorini
The ferry trip into Santorini is spectacular, and little did we know it was only a taste of the island – you enter the bay with sheer cliffs on your right (topped with a mash of little white concrete buildings) and the low, bubbling (just a little), volcano to your left. Abruptly, you are docked at Port and upon alighting you realize that you will need some form of wheels to get you up to the island: it’s a steep zig zag road that leads you to the island life.
It was hot, still, and sprukers-galore as we alighted onto port. Although we had arranged some special accommodation on Santorini (as we would be celebrating Nick’s 25th on the island), it was located in a quiet end of the island where the local public transport didn’t run to. We were advised by many Greeks that the quickest way would be to take a taxi! I was feeling unwell, and with the hoards of competitive tourists beating us down to each taxi that meandered off the cliff I felt as though we were destined for a long wait on the port. Luckily, a lovely Greek gentleman who had given up trying to sell us accommodation (we kept saying: Apanemo! Apanemo! But to no avail…) offered to drive us to Apanemo in his van, which was located outside of Akrotiri, for just 10 euro. As it was the same price as a taxi, we jumped at the chance and considered ourselves very lucky!
Apanemo
Our quiet hotel, Apanemo, was a haven. Located above Akrotiri in the heights, a selection of quiet greek villas stitched together by paths and an Infinity Pool became our Santorini home. Our warm welcome by the family who owned Apanemo was relaxed and delightful as they settled us into our villa. Nothing was too much trouble or out of their way. The pool was sheltered (albeit some big gusts on our second last day) and positioned so that as you swam in it’s cool crystal-clear waters you approached the edge that seemed to only be split by the white wall – to the Caldera. It was stunning!
Happy Birthday Nick
The 14th July, our first day in Santorini, was also Nick’s 25th Birthday. Not only were we spending it in spectacular surroundings, we had also planned to dine at a traditional greek tavern to celebrate his special day. We asked for recommendations from our hosts, who suggested a lovely tavern around the corner named “Aeolos”. Our hosts drove us there (and offered to pick us up afterwards, but we declined and preferred to walk), at our chosen time of 8pm, and it couldn’t have been more perfect: a traditional greek tavern nestled on a cliff overlooking the Caldera (the name for the crescent bay that held the volcano in its centre) and with uninterrupted views of the sunset.
We dined on tomato balls and peppers stuffed with cheese for our entrée, then octopus and gyros for our mains washed down by a local Santorini white. The most romantic part of the night was when there was a black out and the entire restaurant lost power! But not to worry, our trustworthy waiter (and we suspect he was head chef, and owner) come electrician had the answer with gas lighting and an abundance of candles to help us navigate amongst our pita and tzatziki on our plates! Alas, as soon as he had gained control of the situation, the electricity returned and the candles and gas lighting were required no more.
After dinner, we were so full we couldn’t bare a dessert but we were offered some complimentary liquor to ‘settle your stomach’. After settling our bill with The Waiter, we thanked them for a wonderful and spirited evening when the Waitor politely informed us: “You stay at Apanemo?”
“Yes.”
“OK, then I drive you home. Please get in my car.”
We tried to say no, but the Greeks do not listen. So we did as we were told and we let him drive us home! Now, that’s customer service!!
Santorini is an island of many wonders: beautiful views (especially from the heights of the lighthouse!), beaches of all kinds decorated in different colours and surrounds, volcanoes, tiny cobbled greek towns upon breathtakingly high cliffs, and most importantly all of this is –ACCESSIBLE BY SCOOTER! The only drawback to our scooter was that the roads were poorly signposted and so it was easy to miss a turn (well you do if the turn off isn’t marked!) or three, and it’s also difficult to remember which town you are heading towards to arrive at your final destination. But we found our way. And on island time, there is no sense of lost time…
We spent our days in Santorini beach-hoppin’, island-bummin’, beer-sippin’, pita-eatin’, and scooter-ridin’. (Beer-sippin’ and scooter-ridin’ were not done in succession).
My favourite beach was Kamari (the pebble beach) which we visited on our first day. We also visited the Red Beach, and 7 Mile Beach which each had their own qualities but my favourite remained with the pebble beach. It was refreshing, cool, calm and no sand to get caught anywhere!
One evening we rode to the other end of the island to visit the charming town of Ia, who held the reputation of having the best position to watch the world’s best sunset. The town of Ia is a delightful collection of whitewashed greek hubs of activity amongst a madness of lanes and stores. Churches are shoved into spare corners, bars are hidden behind half-doors and no walkway is complete without uneven, yet steep, stairs. After our initial wander, we decided to grab some quick dinner about 7.00pm as we had decided that sunset was closer to 8.30pm. As we tucked into our 2 euro beers and I enjoyed my eggplant stuffed with mince and tomatoes, we felt pleased with ourselves that we weren’t perched on the end of the island with the other thousands of Americans and Australians who were shouldering each other out of the perfect position to capture that perfect Santorini Sunset. At 7.45pm we headed down to an opening to catch the sunset just as it was about to commence it’s final descent – only to be greeted with hoards of people heading towards us! We’d missed the sunset! Oh well, we did capture the moon rise.
My last night in Santorini we visited Thira, the main town, and were very pleased that we had spent most of our time outside it – it was more expensive than the other towns (4.50 euro for a beer? No! We pay 2 euro!) and the shopping was less local and stocked with more designer ware. Ia was definitely more charming, but Thira did contain one thing that Ia did not – the donkey train! The donkey train is a path that leads from a small port at the bottom of the Thira cliff (different to the one we arrived on) where aging Greek men (or are they just that wrinkly from sun damage?) guide a train of donkeys up the hill who carry grains, vegetables and other islands goods.
We promised ourselves our Santorini Sunset after our failed attempt. Rather than fight the crowds in Ia for a spot to enjoy a simple wonder of the world, we headed up to the lighthouse where we were accompanied by a local dog who set up camp with us on the roadside (we named him ‘Sunset Dog’, clever, I know). We waited a mere 15 minutes as the sun sunk from the clear blue sky, and tracked it’s exit from the day into the ocean. Being an Australian east-sider it is a rare treat to watch the sun set into the ocean; and this day was no exception as the sun disappeared into the Aegean Sea. What a fitting end to an amazing, spectacular and beautiful trip.
Greece – I’m sure we’ll be back.
