The ferry trip into Santorini is spectacular, and little did we know it was only a taste of the island – you enter the bay with sheer cliffs on your right (topped with a mash of little white concrete buildings) and the low, bubbling (just a little), volcano to your left. Abruptly, you are docked at Port and upon alighting you realize that you will need some form of wheels to get you up to the island: it’s a steep zig zag road that leads you to the island life.
It was hot, still, and sprukers-galore as we alighted onto port. Although we had arranged some special accommodation on Santorini (as we would be celebrating Nick’s 25th on the island), it was located in a quiet end of the island where the local public transport didn’t run to. We were advised by many Greeks that the quickest way would be to take a taxi! I was feeling unwell, and with the hoards of competitive tourists beating us down to each taxi that meandered off the cliff I felt as though we were destined for a long wait on the port. Luckily, a lovely Greek gentleman who had given up trying to sell us accommodation (we kept saying: Apanemo! Apanemo! But to no avail…) offered to drive us to Apanemo in his van, which was located outside of Akrotiri, for just 10 euro. As it was the same price as a taxi, we jumped at the chance and considered ourselves very lucky!
Apanemo
Our quiet hotel, Apanemo, was a haven. Located above Akrotiri in the heights, a selection of quiet greek villas stitched together by paths and an Infinity Pool became our Santorini home. Our warm welcome by the family who owned Apanemo was relaxed and delightful as they settled us into our villa. Nothing was too much trouble or out of their way. The pool was sheltered (albeit some big gusts on our second last day) and positioned so that as you swam in it’s cool crystal-clear waters you approached the edge that seemed to only be split by the white wall – to the Caldera. It was stunning!
Happy Birthday Nick
The 14th July, our first day in Santorini, was also Nick’s 25th Birthday. Not only were we spending it in spectacular surroundings, we had also planned to dine at a traditional greek tavern to celebrate his special day. We asked for recommendations from our hosts, who suggested a lovely tavern around the corner named “Aeolos”. Our hosts drove us there (and offered to pick us up afterwards, but we declined and preferred to walk), at our chosen time of 8pm, and it couldn’t have been more perfect: a traditional greek tavern nestled on a cliff overlooking the Caldera (the name for the crescent bay that held the volcano in its centre) and with uninterrupted views of the sunset.
We dined on tomato balls and peppers stuffed with cheese for our entrée, then octopus and gyros for our mains washed down by a local Santorini white. The most romantic part of the night was when there was a black out and the entire restaurant lost power! But not to worry, our trustworthy waiter (and we suspect he was head chef, and owner) come electrician had the answer with gas lighting and an abundance of candles to help us navigate amongst our pita and tzatziki on our plates! Alas, as soon as he had gained control of the situation, the electricity returned and the candles and gas lighting were required no more.
After dinner, we were so full we couldn’t bare a dessert but we were offered some complimentary liquor to ‘settle your stomach’. After settling our bill with The Waiter, we thanked them for a wonderful and spirited evening when the Waitor politely informed us: “You stay at Apanemo?”
“Yes.”
“OK, then I drive you home. Please get in my car.”
We tried to say no, but the Greeks do not listen. So we did as we were told and we let him drive us home! Now, that’s customer service!!
Santorini is an island of many wonders: beautiful views (especially from the heights of the lighthouse!), beaches of all kinds decorated in different colours and surrounds, volcanoes, tiny cobbled greek towns upon breathtakingly high cliffs, and most importantly all of this is –ACCESSIBLE BY SCOOTER! The only drawback to our scooter was that the roads were poorly signposted and so it was easy to miss a turn (well you do if the turn off isn’t marked!) or three, and it’s also difficult to remember which town you are heading towards to arrive at your final destination. But we found our way. And on island time, there is no sense of lost time…
We spent our days in Santorini beach-hoppin’, island-bummin’, beer-sippin’, pita-eatin’, and scooter-ridin’. (Beer-sippin’ and scooter-ridin’ were not done in succession).
My favourite beach was Kamari (the pebble beach) which we visited on our first day. We also visited the Red Beach, and 7 Mile Beach which each had their own qualities but my favourite remained with the pebble beach. It was refreshing, cool, calm and no sand to get caught anywhere!
One evening we rode to the other end of the island to visit the charming town of Ia, who held the reputation of having the best position to watch the world’s best sunset. The town of Ia is a delightful collection of whitewashed greek hubs of activity amongst a madness of lanes and stores. Churches are shoved into spare corners, bars are hidden behind half-doors and no walkway is complete without uneven, yet steep, stairs. After our initial wander, we decided to grab some quick dinner about 7.00pm as we had decided that sunset was closer to 8.30pm. As we tucked into our 2 euro beers and I enjoyed my eggplant stuffed with mince and tomatoes, we felt pleased with ourselves that we weren’t perched on the end of the island with the other thousands of Americans and Australians who were shouldering each other out of the perfect position to capture that perfect Santorini Sunset. At 7.45pm we headed down to an opening to catch the sunset just as it was about to commence it’s final descent – only to be greeted with hoards of people heading towards us! We’d missed the sunset! Oh well, we did capture the moon rise.
My last night in Santorini we visited Thira, the main town, and were very pleased that we had spent most of our time outside it – it was more expensive than the other towns (4.50 euro for a beer? No! We pay 2 euro!) and the shopping was less local and stocked with more designer ware. Ia was definitely more charming, but Thira did contain one thing that Ia did not – the donkey train! The donkey train is a path that leads from a small port at the bottom of the Thira cliff (different to the one we arrived on) where aging Greek men (or are they just that wrinkly from sun damage?) guide a train of donkeys up the hill who carry grains, vegetables and other islands goods.
We promised ourselves our Santorini Sunset after our failed attempt. Rather than fight the crowds in Ia for a spot to enjoy a simple wonder of the world, we headed up to the lighthouse where we were accompanied by a local dog who set up camp with us on the roadside (we named him ‘Sunset Dog’, clever, I know). We waited a mere 15 minutes as the sun sunk from the clear blue sky, and tracked it’s exit from the day into the ocean. Being an Australian east-sider it is a rare treat to watch the sun set into the ocean; and this day was no exception as the sun disappeared into the Aegean Sea. What a fitting end to an amazing, spectacular and beautiful trip.
Greece – I’m sure we’ll be back.
After the 3 hour ferry (read: cruise liner) from Pireaous to Paros, we descended onto the port only to be greeted by a wall of island sprukers, even at 9pm at night! We waded through them, ignoring or ‘no’ing our way along the seaside to our hostel that was located about a 200m walk from the ferry dock. Our hostel owner was friendly, helpful and lovely (I’m sensing a pattern here). We checked in an then found a souvlaki place nearby where we could enjoy pita+beer for 4 euros. Love it!
The Incident with the Cat
At the best of times, I am not the best person with cats. They give me the creeps, and so I ignore them; yet this only seems to make them want to come and sit on my lap.
As with some places in Europe, there were a few cats lazing around in the seaside café we chose for dinner and I wasn’t terribly concerned. I only became concerned when a particular cat (Nick named it Smoky) decided to come and sit at my feet and stare and me with cold green eyes while I enjoyed my lamb pita. Mum always said about my brother: ignore him and he’ll go away. And so I did.
It was only when a girl across the restaurant looked shocked, and giggled a little that it peaked my curiosity that the cat may be misbehaving: I looked over to find this cat crawled up on the end of my cane chair arching itself and leaning across to have a go at my dinner! It scared the bejeezus out of me!!
Nick scared him away (with his secret cat scaring method) and Smoky then went searching for his next victim, but I could relax knowing that I’d only be clear of being harassed again once I had finished my food. (It was the next day we realized that these clean and friendly cats are actually strays, but that the locals love them).
The following morning, Nick hired a scooter as our mode of transport for the island. There are local buses that will take you around, but that was far too much effort and coordination for Nick, and he wanted to freedom a scooter could give us: we could park, ride and scoot anywhere we wanted!
The scooter gave us access to beaches across the island: Kamares, Parasporas, Alyki, Santa Maria and Chrysi Akti (pictured L-R).
Our first swim was Kamares, just 2 mins up the road from our hostel (though the directions from our hostel sent us the back way and took us 20 minutes!), and we enjoyed the salty water, the crisp, refreshing feel of the water and sand between our toes! Unfortunately the two ½ days we were in Paros it was quite windy so some beaches were unbearable with sand whipping us, but the more protected ones were lovely.
One afternoon when the windy was proving chaotic, we followed a random road to the Butterfly Valley. Tucked into the side of an arid, and dustry dry hill (as is all the island), there is a natural rainforest where a rare breed of butterfly mates. It’s bizarre! They are of triangular shape when they are rest on a tree, chocolate with white spots; until they fly and they are a beautiful, brilliant burnt orange colour.
Our last morning in Paros we wandered the Parikia Old Town: an intense, cobbled mayhem of stairs, pathways, lanes, drainpipes, whitewashed cement, blue doors and flat stone. Bougainvilleas crawl up white walls, un-tamed; stores and home are shoved in odd and unusual places all captured in the greek island charm. If only life could be the simple island life we were becoming accustomed to!
At midday we boarded our ferry (read: cruise liner!) to Santorini. It was cheap as chips (16 Euro) as therefore meant it was first in, best dressed to get a seat under the canopy on the top of the boat. But it proved to be a great spot to watch the island world pass by….
Our arrival into Athens was very welcome: 40 degree heat thankyouverymuch. Perhaps not a welcome that most would appreciate, but for us the immediate tidal wave of heat that hit us as we departed the airport was a warm, and soothing welcome to our adventure.
Locating out hotel was easy, and although we were warned the Greeks weren’t than friendly or helpful, the receptionist come travel agent, tour guide, information desk, local advocate and water dispenser proved to be joyful, helpful and friendly. After dumping our things, we caught the Metro to Syntagma in search of Lycabettus Hill and, therefore, ‘the view’ over Athens.
Syntagma Square greeted us with news that the temperature we suspected was correct. 42C; hot, but not unbearable. The European sun doesn’t carry the sting that the Australian one does, it is more subtle and although it was very warm, the air didn’t cling to you and suffocate you as you gasped for more.
Albeit mapless (unless you count the somewhat hand-drawn one from our hotel we carried), we wandered the streets of Kolonaki in search of the cable car that could take us up the Lycabettus Hill. But with no luck. We wandered back streets and main streets, followed corners, stairs and crossed small squares. Eventually, we found ourselves at the foot of the hill where the only path to the top was to trek.
By this time, waterless, as we neared the top I thought I was going to die of thirst. But the reward of the view (and the two full bottles of water we guzzled at the café) reminded me to stop being so dramatic. (See what too many months in London does to your heat stamina!)
That night, and as we did the following night aswell, we ascended to the roof garden of our hotel where they served homecooked Greek Cuisine for a cheap 7 euros a main. It was beneath an Athenian sunset, sipping 2 euro Mythos we first saw the Parthenon (and Acropolis) from afar. Stunning!
The following day, we were up early to me Despina below the hanging clock at Syntagma Metro for our walking tour across Athens, finishing at the Parthenon. I had purchased the tour for Nick, (aka the ancient Greek history nerd), as little birthday present to celebrate his 25th birthday.
The tour was very interesting and we learnt a lot about not only greek mythology and ancient Greece, we also learnt about modern Greece, the attitudes of the greek people, and what has shaped Greece to be the country it is today. Not only did we learn all of this, but Despina, our tour guide, hates the sun; and taught us to always seek out the shade by navigating the tour from shady spot to shady spot, even to the top of the Acropolis!
After the tour, we descended the Acropolis to visit the Pynx (birthplace of democracy!), and also the Mars Rock (named by the Romans after the God of War, and also the place where St Peter delivered the first Christian address). Although I learnt ancient Greek history in year 8, having Nick nearby to fill in the many gaps in my memory of the greeks was certainly very helpful!
That afternoon we wandered the Monostiraki Flea Market (we picked up souvlaki pita for 2 euros for lunch, and a hat to protect me from the sun on the islands for 13), before heading back to the hotel for another cheap dinner overlooking the acropolis.
(Nick didn’t say much at dinner as he spent it sipping Mythos and in awe of the acropolis, a sight he had longed to see for a very long time).
Our last day in Athens, we decided to head to Hadrian’s Arch, Temple of Zeus and the Ancient Agora (ancient marketplace). Again, our shade-jumping became very useful to guard our skin from the heat, as did the many times we re-filled our water bottle. It’s been a long time since I’ve felt perpetually thirsty (but damn, my skin was good)!
We collected our packs from our hotel and caught the Metro out to Piraeous where we would meet our ferry to the islands. We received a phone call from Nick’s boss on the metro – Nick had finally received his work visa! It was this good news that we left Athens ready for the next chapter of our Greek adventure….. island-hopping, beach-bumming, beer-sipping heaven; here we come!
